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Coco on the Go


Chalk it up to the magic of the Mekong
The first ten miles were terrible, honestly. As I rode out of Cần Thơ, a large Vietnamese city bundled between the bends of the Mekong...
Courtney Skalley
Mar 49 min read


A monastic (dis)order of mischievous monks
Nala Gumba, a Tibetan Buddhism monastery situated in the foothills of the Himalayas. In addition to the resident monks, guests are...
Courtney Skalley
Feb 27 min read


The secret to life is in the barley
I swirled my fingers in the rice, partially to mix it with the dal curry and sautéed spinach, partially because it felt warm on my...
Courtney Skalley
Jan 1518 min read


Making friends in high places
The border patrol wasn’t really at the border, but it made more sense to have it here, at the base of the Drakensberg. The real border...
Courtney Skalley
Nov 13, 202410 min read


A tick plays a sick trick
The bug bites are starting to form constellations on my legs. I’ve got the Big Dipper just above my knee, Cassiopeia angling down my...
Courtney Skalley
Oct 27, 20244 min read


Enkaji conversations: getting to know the Maasai
Counting the pitstop to change the tire, the bus ride to Loliondo only took ten hours, which seemed to be a record in comparison to the...
Courtney Skalley
Oct 19, 20249 min read


Meeting the Maasai
The plains were still arid, stretched taut between the hills on the horizon like a pale yellow towel that had been wrung dry and laid...
Courtney Skalley
Sep 25, 20245 min read


Defeating the microbe, climbing Kilimanjaro
“We’ll give you 600 Euros, a room in a 5-star hotel, and free meals.” Twist my arm . My connecting flight from Istanbul to Kilimanjaro...
Courtney Skalley
Sep 12, 20248 min read


I've got a curd in my pocket
The museum was underwhelming. Drew walked to the exit, and I veered toward reception to ask a question about a billboard that I had seen...
Courtney Skalley
Aug 21, 20248 min read


Fast horses run you into trouble faster
“Give me the fastest horse you have”. I walked down the line of horses tied to the fence, each saddled and ready to go for our two-day...
Courtney Skalley
Aug 14, 202412 min read


I'll have the fermented mare's milk, please
Morning light filled the farmhouse at 6am, bringing with it the feeling that there was work to do. First, water. I set my feet on the...
Courtney Skalley
Aug 11, 20247 min read


Dear god please don't let me end up in Russia
I trudged the 1.5 miles from the hostel to the train station with all of my belongings, sweating in the stagnant evening air. Having...
Courtney Skalley
Aug 1, 20243 min read


Day 1 in Mongolia: an endless steppe, a touch of anxiety, and really hot water
The steppe was endless. Not a single tree, road, or building marred the sprawling blanket of green. I took in a deep breath at the sight,...
Courtney Skalley
Jul 30, 20243 min read


The Deal of a Lifetime
The first word of the email: Congratulations! My brain short-circuited, my hand instinctively flew up to my mouth, perhaps in...
Courtney Skalley
Jul 27, 20242 min read
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